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'Where the World's Your Oyster.' North Coast life really is a beach for Sheridan Rogers (9/4/08) - "It was the night of the red moon and the normally sleepy mid north coast town of Emerald Beach was humming. The parking lot opposite the beach was packed as people waited, drinks in hand and cameras ready, to capture the lunar eclipse. A sense of excitement was in the salty air and the local kids were celebrating by turning cartwheels on the grass and showing off on skateboards.
We were also celebrating, in great style, just over the road at the Saltwater Cafe and Restaurant with a bottle of Jansz sparkling wine and a variety of tasty entrees: gremolata-baked oysters; dashi-salted scallop and prawn dumplings with wasabi cream; salmon gravlax and ricotta roulade on brioche croutons.
This fabulous mod Oz restaurant, which opened a couple of years ago, is remarkable not just for its sophisticated contemporary design and food, but also for its smart upstairs accommodation.
A 20-minute drive north of Coffs Harbour and just five minutes off the Pacific Highway, it has certainly lifted the tone of the little town, which comprises a caravan park, small general store, liquor outlet, massage parlour and one other restaurant.
Situated next door to the funky Greenstone Studio & Gallery at the end of Fiddaman Road, it's impossible to miss as you drive down towards the beach.
By the time the Earth's shadow had completely swallowed the moon, we were on to our main courses, which included tender eye fillet of beef served with truffled potato mash and porcini mushroom jus, and an Asian-style salmon cutlet poached in a green ginger coconut broth with prawn an scallp ravioli.
Once the celestial show was over and we moved onto dessert - and, pardon the pun, my poached pear with double chocolate orange mousse was heavenly.
The wine list has also been given much thought and includes a delicious Katnook Sauvignon Blanc, a terrific Mr Riggs Shiraz and a Cape Mentelle 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon. Fortunately, I was staying upstairs that evening and only had to negotiate the 16 wooden steps.
Like the restaurant, this is a large, sophisticated space that will easily accommodate a family. Designed by local architect under instruction from owner Carol Walsh, it's like being in your very own serviced modern apartment. There are three carpeted bedrooms, two bathrooms, a well-equipped kitchen (oven, stovetop, microwave, fridge, smart white crockery and cutlery), laundry (washing machine and dryer) and large tiled living area where you can relax on a comfy suede-like sofa and watch the plasma TV. Or, on warm summer nights, you might prefer a barbecue outside on the deck.
The view from here over the ocean and out to Groper Island is spectacular; the night after the eclipse, I watched an evern more vibrant red moon rise out of the sea from the upstairs deck followed by a bright gold sun the following morning.
I'd recommend putting on walking shoes as soon as the sun is up for a walk out to Look At Me Now Headland, a significant local Aboriginal site with spectacular 360-degree views: from here you can see South Solitary Island (with its lighthouse), Moonee Beach, Mount Coramba and surrounding mountains.
Despite the name, this glorious heath-like headland is not where Kath and Kim reside, though if you're lucky you'll spot a number of kangaroos cavorting around and sunning theselves.
In spring it's dotted with wild flowers and rare headland plants, which are protected by the Moonee Beach Nature Reserve.
It's wise to stay on the walking track, as some of the cliffs here are very steep and there are a number of gravestones along the way, testament to the many shipwrecks and individuals lost at sea nearby. Just a 10-minute drive from Emerald Beach is Lake Russell Gallery, full of paintings, sculptures, ceramics and glassware by a serene lake.
After having dined so well and watched the heavenly bodies show off, I was lulled to sleep that night by the sound of surf pounding on the beach, a world away from the cares and woes of life in the big city."
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